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FACES OF BREATHTAKING BATANES
Maybebkas kan mayanien
Makenem as masalaosao
Pachivanan ko sa aya
Ta imo mian du nakem ko.
(Mighty waves and thunderstorms
Heavy clouds and stormy skies
All of these may come my way
Still I strive for love of thee.)
– Lines from “Beautiful Batanes Isles”, a traditional Ivatan song
Batanes is located at the northernmost tip of Luzon, situated near Taiwan, separated by the Bashi Channel. The merging Pacific Ocean and the West Philippine Sea produce powerful currents, making Batanes inaccessible to small sea craft.
The province is a tiny archipelago composed of six municipalities including Basco (the capital), Mahatao, Ivana, Uyugan and the island municipalities of Sabtang and Itbayat, with a total of 29 barangays.
According to the local Government of Batanes, the current population in the province is around 17 thousand. Being the smallest province in the Philippines, it has a landmass of about 1/3 of Metro Manila.
Located at the northernmost tip, Batanes weather is relatively cooler than the rest of the Philippines. The people of Batanes recognize two seasons: rayun (tag-init), which lasts from March to May, and amian (taglamig) from November to February, where temperatures usually drop to below 10 degrees Celsius.
Northern Paradise
If you’re looking for paradise, Batanes is a perfect destination. There are lots of scenic spots that will leave you in awe.
Feast your eyes on dramatic landscapes mapping out the entire province. Equally eye-catching are the liveng, the Batanes version of hedgerows. These small trees, shrubs or tall grasses like talahib or bamboo, protect the crops against animals, and serve as windbreakers that protect against soil erosion and boundaries that mark land properties.
Almost half of the land area in Batanes is composed of steep hills and mountains, showcasing a picturesque view.
There are three lighthouses in Batanes. One of these is the Basco lighthouse, which was inaugurated in 2003 and the first to be installed in the province. It is located in Naidi Hills, where one can see the views of the West Philippines Sea and the Basco town proper.
The coastline’s rich blues and greens glitter in the sun like jewels, also creating a soothing music of waves crashing on the shore. Tranquillity at its finest!
Batanes is also known for its Ivatan culture. The Ivatans are an ethnic group found mainly in the Batanes group of Islands. Being peaceful in nature, the inhabitants are proud of its zero crime rate.
Magnet for Typhoons
Despite its beauty, Batanes faces challenges whenever a bagyo enters the Philippine Area of Responsibility (PAR). Situated within the typhoon path, Batanes is often mentioned in weather reports because it is used as a point of reference for weather disturbances. It also houses the northernmost synoptic station of PAGASA located in Basco.
These small islands are frequently alerted by the weather bureau when cyclones are expected to move toward the north-western quadrant of the PAR line, where weather disturbances usually exit.
Just within the month of September this year, three cyclones affected Batanes—Typhoon Ferdie, Typhoon Gener, and Typhoon Helen. Among these, Ferdie was the fiercest.
Ferdie entered the PAR on September 11, 2016 as a severe tropical storm. As it came closer to land, it was upgraded into a typhoon category, packing winds of 220 kph and gustiness of 255 kph.
On September 14, it made landfall in Batanes, particularly Itbayat. Ferdie affected thousands of families and damaged more than 2,000 houses, mostly in the municipality of Basco.
Based on the last report of the National Disaster Risk Reduction and Management Council (NDRRMC), the cost of damage was estimated at more than P240 million. The entire province was placed under a state of calamity.
Together with my cameraman, I flew to Batanes to cover the devastation, and assist with relief operations. We also had the chance to visit Itbayat, which was isolated for three days.
On the same day when Ferdie made landfall in Batanes, Gener entered the PAR. Though it did not hit the landmass, it still posed a threat to the province where Tropical Cyclone Warning Signal Number 1 was hoisted.
In a span of less than two weeks, another typhoon prevailed within the boundary. Due to Helen, the islands of Batanes were once again in danger, this time at Signal Number 2.
For the locals, this was not the first time that they experienced the extreme wrath of typhoons. Batanes was also battered by Typhoon Odette last 2013, which was the strongest in 25 years—until Ferdie came.
Odette garnered winds of 215 kph and gustiness of up to 240 kph. Like Ferdie, it made landfall in Itbayat. The typhoon’s fury also unroofed houses and flattened crops.
Unparalleled Resiliency
Despite the widespread damage brought by Ferdie, there was no loss of lives.
“Wala pong casualty, ‘yan ang good news. At ang grasya na rin po, ang aming runway ay nadadaanan kaya patuloy po ang pagdating ng relief goods. (Zero casualty, that’s the good news. We are still blessed that the runway was spared from the damages, making way for the relief operations.)This one is a very strong typhoon, but because we have a tradition of community resiliency, we were able to clean up our national roads. No one died despite the damage to properties and many of our homes.
With the help of national government agencies and our people, we will be able to respond collectively to all these challenges. We will be able to rebuild Batanes, a community known for its resiliency and cooperative response.” – Batanes Representative Dina Abad
“Habang may buhay nga raw po, may pag-asa.” (As long as there’s life, there is hope.) – Catherine Abella, a mother of five, who had her birthday in the wake of Typhoon Ferdie
“Pasalamat na lang kami, walang namatay sa amin. Buhay pa rin hanggang sa ngayon.” (We can do this. We are very thankful that no one died.) – Teng Cabizon
Despite the dreadful experience, Nanay Claudia and Tatay Daniel, parents of Teng, held on to their faith. “Daanan man kami ng mga ganitong pagsubok, andoon pa rin ‘yung pananalig sa Diyos.” (Challenges may come but our faith in God will remain.)
As I looked at the smiling faces of the locals, I realized that Filipinos are indeed strong and resilient. No matter how ferocious typhoons are, we always quickly get back on our feet.
Preparing for disasters – the Ivatan way
The Ivatans have unique skills in weather forecasting and survival because they are constantly exposed to the risks of tropical cyclones. The Ivatan term for natural disaster is makamumua mapaparin. Typhoon is called anin, referring to extraordinary winds that are strong and destructive. Storms are classified as:
– Anin nu vanyeveh or coconut typhoon- strong enough to destroy coconut palms
– Adipogpog– tornado without rain
– Salao-sao– bad weather or windy and rainy
– Dipanchi– sudden changes in the weather, from rainy to sunny and vice versa
– Nisu– a windy day without rain
Ivatans are able to determine if there’s a coming typhoon using these signs:
– Du-taw: sign from the sea
– Duaraw: sign from the sun
– Plant and tree signs
– Signs from the clouds and sky
– Animal signs
These natural signs help them prepare for the changing weather. Once Ivatans have observed these signs, they immediately attend to their houses, fields and ports.
Experts say that no other culture in the Philippines has mastered the fury of tropical cyclones more than the Ivatans. Throughout history, they have constantly struggled and adapted to strong winds and rough seas.
Something that’s also unique to their culture is their famous Ivatan stone houses, which were introduced by the Spaniards. The walls of these houses are made of limestone, enabling them to withstand even the strongest typhoons. The roofs are made from thick cogon grass.
The Ivatans also wear vakul, a traditional headpiece made from fibers, which are used to guard them from the sun and rain.
Sources:
PAGASA
http://www.batanes.gov.ph/
http://ncca.gov.ph/subcommissions/subcommission-on-cultural-communities-and-traditional-arts-sccta/northern-cultural-communities/the-batanes-islands/
file:///C:/Users/User/Downloads/1753-1632-1-PB.pdf
https://www.scribd.com/doc: Indigenous-Peoples-Filipino-s-key-of-the-Past
NDRRMC http://www.ndrrmc.gov.ph/attachments/article/2913/SitRep_No_13_re_Preparedness_Measures_and_Effects_of_Typhoon_FERDIE_(MERANTI)_Covering_the_240600H_to_250600H_September_2016.pdf
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